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Common placket constructions Grown-on (self) placket: placket is folded from the front panel Separate placket: a separate strip is attached to the front edge Facing + button extension: cleaner inside, more steps and cost Hidden placket: premium look, but higher risk and higher cost How I pick quickly Light fabric (viscose, challis): separate placket + light fusing Medium fabric (poplin, crepe): grown-on placket + stable fusing Heavy fabric (twill, denim): separate placket, reduce bulk, adjust SPI My cost vs stability table How do I prevent gaping and button pull at the bust