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The Metropolitan Museum of Art describes the Zig Zag collection as: a series of gowns that advanced the exquisite opulence of this prophetic New Look Each [dress] exploited the lavish drapery and controlled tailoring of Diors New Look, but with novel emphasis on asymmetry that was to become a Dior leitmotif. (Met) Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl note in The History of Modern Fashion (2015) that Harpers Bazaar declared him agent provocateur and hero of the day' (209)